The industry of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everybody. One of many areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned with regards to driving sliding is superior to grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic surpasses rubber. So when 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I needed to scoop one as much as see what every one of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Will Make It: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any degree of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Exactly How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for convenient learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning while watching motor or around the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?A great deal of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has quite a bit going for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in at the very reasonable price. Handling is great too when you become accustomed to the kit setup, and it accepts a really number of body styles. There’s also a bunch of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, and this car should grow along as your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It offers cutouts on the bottom for your front and back diffs to peek through as well as a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of are used for mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find a number of left empty. They could be helpful to control chassis flex, although not with all the stock top deck; an optional you have to be found. The layout is similar to a normal touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are easily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.
? Aside from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. One particular A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll while the front uses an appealing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This system allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars may be the serious volume of steering throw they have got. Starting with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near to the edges of your chassis as is possible. This generates a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend nearly all of their time sideways, I needed a great servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
While not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I needed it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A massive, 92T 48P spur is coupled to the central gear shaft, the location where the front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep your front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the power towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to permit using a selection of different wheel and tire combos.
? To give the D4 some beauty, I opted for 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica of the car and included a slick list of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, nevertheless i do remember a method I used a little while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
About The TRACK
For this test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I had been heading there to do a photograph shoot for the next vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and get some sideways action?
The steering on the D4 is very amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. Even the CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. While it does look a little bit funny using the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the right direction. This is certainly, in part, on account of the awesome handling of your D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, you can control the angle of attack as well as the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish exactly that make controlled, smooth throttle changes in alter the angle of your D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in a little shallow? Add more throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit as well as the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, as well as the Novak system is for that. I have done need to be a bit creative with all the install of the system because of only a little space on the chassis, but overall it worked out great.
After driving hooked up touring cars for a time, it does require a little getting used to knowing that a car losing grip and sliding is the proper way across the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control after you have it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways using a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at under a couple of inches from your curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, along with the D4 can it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you think like you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of what you should adjust. I actually enjoyed the car together with the kit setup plus it was only a matter of a battery pack or two before I used to be swinging the back round the hairpins, around the carousel and to and fro through the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap battery in the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.
There’s not a whole lot that you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I did so, however, have an problem with the front side belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top level deck. In the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept along with it, attempting to overcome the matter with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually look it over. In the build, the belt slips right into a plastic ‘tunnel’ which is maintained by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a tad bit more. Problem solved.